Many of us are familiar with the mass exodus to Margate in Kent – a modern migration, of sorts – that's been happening since the early 2010s. So palpable has this influx been, that the new-gen gentrifiers have earned their very own moniker: 'DFLs' (Down from Londoners).
But as the cost of living climbs and house prices soar, it's no wonder that a desire for a slower, greener and more restorative lifestyle is growing across the UK; movers are seeking somewhere close to coastal nature without forgoing creativity, culture or good food.
If Margate has begun to feel a little Shoreditch-on-Sea for your tastes, the seaside enclave we're spotlighting feels refreshingly undiscovered: a hidden gem where antique shops, avant-garde cooking and a sense of community sit comfortably beneath vast skies, salt air and abundant birdlife. Enter: St. Leonards-on-Sea, an unsuspecting town in the borough of Hastings, East Sussex.
Why St. Leonards?
"Originally laid out as a purpose-built resort by renowned architect James Burton in the 19th century, St. Leonards was cemented as a jewel in the British coastal crown when Princess Victoria and her mother, the Duchess of Kent, stayed here during the winter of 1834," says The Modern House Journal. "Don’t be fooled, however, by its royal patronage, stuccoed fronts and symmetrical façades; the charm of St. Leonards lies in its resolutely offbeat and laidback spirit."
Indeed, more peaceful than its neighbour Hastings, though no less jubilant in character, St. Leonards has a distinctly bohemian feel. Regency architecture lines the seafront, softened by salty winds and climbing greenery, yet just inland, streets are dotted with antique shops, independent boutiques and artist studios that give it its bold, eclectic voice. This is no snoozy seaside town – it offers a lion's share of style and spunk to the Sussex coast.
Where to eat and drink in St. Leonards
St. Leonards punches well above its weight when it comes to eating out. Along Kings Road and Norman Road (above), you’ll find a growing collection of independent restaurants, natural wine bars and cafés – many sourcing locally and cooking simply, but well. Just-caught fish, garden vegetables and slow, convivial dining set an impressive benchmark.
Selkie
A standout on the St. Leonards food scene, Selkie on Bottle Alley is recognised for its authentic, unpretentious approach to hyper-local, seasonal cooking with a focus on 'seafood charcuterie' and sustainability. Expect fresh oysters and dishes that change with the tide, all served in joyfully busy space.
St. Clement's
"St. Leonards wasn’t really on my map of gastronomic hotspots," confesses Country Living's features editor, Lauran Elsden. "But I was pleasantly surprised when I went for a birthday bonanza at St Clement’s last year.
"Promoting provenance – locally sourced seafood, meat and veg – my friend and I shared grilled Hastings’ skate wing and sirloin of Sussex beef, followed by a best-in-show sticky toffee pudding. Go and give it a try, just be sure to book ahead of time."
Graze on Grand
A self-confessed wine/food/gallery concept on the seafront, Graze is also home to a hand-picked deli section, offering Seggiano and Brindisa products galore and carefully selected wines that can be taken away and gifted (or enjoyed/scoffed at home). For visual grazing, its contemporary art oversees diners as they look out to sea.
Goat Ledge
Best-in-class baps, chips and great vegan scran define Goat Ledge, which resides in a collection of beach huts as colourful as its clientele, right on St. Leonards' seafront. Such is the café's 'local institution' status, that one couple even got married there – oh, and it's dog-friendly. They take hospitality pretty seriously.
Galleries and creative corners
Creativity thrums throughout St. Leonards. Rather than blockbuster galleries, you’ll find personal little alcoves tucked between shops and homes.
- Big Yin Gallery – a black-owned, artist-led contemporary art gallery and shop selling art, ceramics, plants, clothes, greetings cards and more. Look out for events hosted by its refreshingly irreverent Anti-Perfection Club.
- Baker-Mamonova Gallery – hosted in Kino-Teatr (an indie cinema space), this gallery has been exhibiting, framing and promoting the best of 20th Century Russian Art since 2001.
- Project 78 – another gem on Norman Road, Project 78 spotlights multimedia local talent – just don't miss its fabulous podcast, which sheds light on the creatives that really live in St. Leonards.
- Hastings Contemporary – a short drive away, this bold, independent arts charity anchors the area with exhibitions and ocean sustainability advocacy. Don't miss The Open: Odyssey exhibition, open until the end of May.
- Sunless Antiques – with a beautiful, Victorian shopfront, Sunless sells dreamy vintage clothing in a shop space that feels like a gallery in itself.
The great outdoors
One of St. Leonards’ greatest luxuries is space. The beach stretches wide and open, with fewer crowds than more famous seaside spots — ideal for blustery walks, early swims and summery picnics alike.
Beyond the seafront, the East Sussex countryside rolls out quickly: clifftop walks, nature reserves and footpaths embroidered with wildflowers and birdsong are unmissable. It’s this interplay between coast and countryside that gives the town its restorative pull.
Where to stay
Cottage in the Sky
For a stay that captures the inherent romance of St. Leonards, Cottage in the Sky on Airbnb is hard to beat. Frequently voted one of the site's most popular stays, it's a dreamy, limewashed affair, perched high above the town and offering sweeping sea views and artfully eccentric design.
Other options
From restored townhouses to Airbnbs decorated with flair, to simple guesthouses near the beach, St. Leonards boasts a growing number of charming places to stay. Many are independently run and full of character, offering up the town’s creative spirit – and a good chance to recce the place if moving is on the cards for you.
St. Leonards-on-Sea isn’t trying to be the next Margate – yet who'd have thought that very status has become a part of its allure. For those seeking a slower brand of seaside living – one that balances bohemian creativity with heart-strong authenticity – it might just be the south coast’s most compelling under-the-radar escape.
Maddy is the Homes Writer at House Beautiful UK and Country Living UK, where she can be found writing about the latest interiors news and collating inspiring trend edits. She has previously worked for Good Housekeeping, Prima and Red, and has an MA in Classics and Ancient History from the University of Manchester and a BA in English Literature and Creative Writing from the University of East Anglia, where she was the editor-in-chief of the student newspaper.
